Walking Breaks in Yorkshire, with Penny Knight

Hi Penny, We are delighted to have you as a guest on our Yorkshire Escapes blog! We’d love to start by hearing a bit about you. How did you get into organising walking tours around North Yorkshire?

“In 2015, I had only ever visited Yorkshire once, and that was when I was just 14 years old on a family holiday. The previous year in 2014, as a qualified Mountain Leader, I had worked for Colletts Mountain Holidays managing a chalet in the Italian Dolomites. The only holiday accommodation the company owned in the UK was here in Leyburn. Following my season in Italy, a request popped up on my emails asking for help running Eastfield Lodge, I jumped at the opportunity. It was only for six months at the most . . . or so they said! Over ten years later, Henry and I are still here and have no intention of going anywhere else! 

I cannot remember a time in my life when I haven’t enjoyed every chance to get out on a walk across hills and mountains. I lived for many years on the very edge of the Dartmoor National Park, spent a few years in the Army, tutored students keen to join the military and emergency services and later worked as an Operations Manager at Outdoor Centres – all active jobs. In 2010, I led my first Overseas Expedition in China and have been leading groups on foot, cycles and horseback several times a year since then. When I return home to the Dales, regardless of where I have travelled, I find myself saying, “Well, it doesn’t get any better than this!”

What is it about North Yorkshire that makes it such a magical place to explore on foot?

“When I arrived at Eastfield Lodge, I was lucky to inherit a legacy of quality walking breaks with regular repeat visitors, set routes and a tried, tested and successful formula. Over the years, I have set myself a challenge – that no guest with me will find themselves on the same walk twice. I record the names of each guest and where we have visited and before the next break, I check and plan with this in mind. I have built up a list of 54 possible routes ranging from easy, low level and short to challenging, high level and long. This allows me to choose options depending on the weather conditions, group ability and enthusiasm as well as previous visits. We always try to visit three different Dales during their week here as each Dale has its own character, feel and history. 

Despite the fact that I only came to Yorkshire 10 years ago, I love the area so much that I have been inspired to learn everything I can. About the wildlife, the rivers, the farming, the local people, the birds, the way of life and the vegetation underfoot. I feel blessed to have been so warmly welcomed by the local community from whom I’ve learnt so much. Leyburn has some big characters – local legends – who have lived here all their lives and I’m lucky that they so enjoy imparting stories and interesting facts which I can pass onto our guests during a walk. It’s this that makes the dales so special. Such  pride in the area, the warmth of its people, the slower pace of life, the individual character of each Dale, the variety of bird and wildlife and the very fact that it remains so unchanged. It fills my soul and guests comment how relaxed and restored they feel by their stay.” 

Tell us a bit more about your walking tours?

Do you have set routes people can join, or do you create more tailored walks for families and groups?

“Guests usually arrive on a Monday afternoon to homemade cookies and good old Yorkshire Tea. The evening sees a get together for Prosecco or Wensleydale beer and canapés and a chat from me about the week ahead. Even the most apprehensive often feel reassured by the promise that there are always options which allow everyone to do as much or as little as they feel comfortable. And, the use of Foster Coaches has been a revelation meaning we can do linear routes across several dales. Good sustaining dinners in the evenings with wine on the tables are sociable and fun. Sometimes followed by a quiz or games depending on energy levels! On Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday the walks usually start at 0930 and we cover anything between 7 miles – 13 miles depending on the group. But, Thursday evening hails a celebration meal in the Sandpiper after drinks and photos of the week projected onto the large TV in the Lodge bar. 

Not all the tours are with walking groups, however. Recently we had a fabulous crowd of young artists, writers and children’s illustrators who walked with frequent stops to sketch and paint on route. I guided one lady who was holidaying alone but escaping from a busy job in London. This bespoke walk along the river was the very best therapy for her. Reunion groups are magical with a constant buzz of chat and laughter. Some walking clubs might not know the area so request a guide despite their competency with a map. I have been asked to guide families, couples and bunches of colleagues for company work events too. It can be so varied but the Dales never, ever disappoint. There is something for everyone and I love to mix it up and make the time to speak to everyone in the group. I am able to see everyone much more easily from the back and this often surprises people that I won’t be striding out in front but chatting away at the back, especially if people know to simply glance back at every junction, gate or stile to check on the direction.” 

Let’s talk about recommendations! What would you say are the…

Best walks for families who want something fun, but not too long

“For a family, I would recommend starting at the tea room at Jervaulx Abbey, across the estate so easy underfoot, to play Pooh Sticks at Kilgram Bridge, across a seriously muddy field so the wellies get stuck!! Pass the friendly sheep and into Thornton Steward to play a game of table tennis in the hall and grab a cuppa and a loo opportunity, pass the church and across the fields, jumping over the stream and wander past Danby Hall for a swift pint in the Cover Bridge and a fabulous garden for kids by the river, and back along the river to Jervaulx – only 7.5 miles and quite flat. Another wonderful option would be a short loop around Snaizeholme to see the red squirrels – perfect as long as the kids can remain quiet for long enough!!” 

Best walks for beginners just getting into walking

“For the beginners, I would head up into Leyburn town and buy a sandwich from Lana, then set off on the Leyburn Shawl with Wensleydale stretched out in front of you almost immediately, quite flat or mostly downhill all the way into Redmire to fall into the Redmire Village Pub and get the Little White Bus to do the work coming back uphill to Leyburn. Very varied and a great taster of the Dales. 6 miles.”

Best walks for keen hikers who love a challenge

“For the keen hikers, there is so much to recommend the challenging route up to the summit of Buckden Pike at 702m. Rewarded after the hour long climb with far reaching views, a trig point and the history of the Polish airmen’s memorial before one of the most stunning descents in Wharfdale on the old Walden Road alongside Cam Gill Beck down into the Fox and Hounds in Starbotton – just over 9 miles but with 550m of ascent.”

Best walks for nature lovers who want to spot wildlife or wildflowers

“For those looking for wildlife and birdlife, I would choose the open moors above Carperby and for those set on a challenge, jump aboard the Little White Bus from Leyburn to Askrigg and walk back to Leyburn – a good 13 miles but without too much ascent. Black rabbits introduced for the fur trade, hares, birds of prey, lapwing and curlew as well as the chance of spotting a deer, barn owl and osprey. For the wildflowers however, it has to be Muker and the famous wild meadows in June for a remarkable spectacle.”

Best walks for view seekers who just want that perfect “wow” moment

“For the very best views, the walk from Cray around the limestone shelf to Hubberholme is breathtaking with a view down the length of Wharfedale, the perfect and lush green U-shaped glacial valley. If continuing along the river towards Starbotton, put in the short steep climb up the drovers lane to Old Cote Moor and drop down from here into Kettlewell for more mesmerising panoramas. The views from Harkerside looking back westward along Swaledale are also incredible, as are those from the top of Penhill and from a snack break by the gate above the White House on Fremington Edge. In the Dales, we are spoilt for choice!”

Do you have a personal favourite walk, i.e the one you never get tired of no matter how many times you do it?

“There isn’t a favourite – there are so many factors that affect this on the day and usually for me, it’s down to an encounter or a rainbow, or a burst of sunlight. I walked once near Countersett in the snow but with the sun on my face when a stoat appeared jumping through the white powder and I was able to watch it for several minutes. Then, I glanced back over Semer Water and heard the greylag geese calling – magical moments.  It seemed a great time to settle on a large rock, pull on my woolly hat and tuck into a flask of hot Yorkshire tea and my favourite trek snacks, a Grandma Wilde’s flapjack, a packet of Lime and Chilli Yorkshire crisps and a bag of Proper Nuts Wasabi peanuts – Happy Days!” 

For anyone planning a Yorkshire walking day out, what are your must-do tips? (We’re thinking the best snacks, stop-offs, and of course, where to go for a good brew/pint?)

“Who doesn’t love a walk that ends in a pub? The Wheatsheaf in Carperby, The Three Horseshoes in Wensley, The Cover Bridge and the Redmire Village Pub are all regular stops for our groups and if we are back in time. I’ll lead a march to the Wensleydale Distillery for some tasting and shopping – always good to get some souvenirs! Guests so often leave their cars and go up into the town on a Friday morning before heading home. Friday is market day and there’s always Campbells which shouldn’t be missed!” 

How can people find out more about your walking tours or get in touch to book one?

The best way to get in contact with me and keep up-to-date with my tours is via Instagram @Pennyknight13

Once you’ve booked your accommodation via the Yorkshire Escapes team, they can also introduce you to me via email so that we can make all the necessary arrangements for you and your group.

Where to stay on your Yorkshire walking break? 

Eastfield Lodge, Leyburn, North Yorkshire  

8 Bedrooms, Sleeps up to 16 people. Dog friendly.

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